Words by Ned Hart:
I saw the swell on the forecast and knew it was gonna be a cracker, although this place is so changable and fickle you never really know what your gonna get. Its so hard to read.
It was looking really big and the tide was low and wind was light. It was the first proper swell of the season so I was super fired up to get a nugget
We had heard there was a fair amount of people chasing this swell so we got to the wave as early as possible which was maybe around 7. We watched a couple of empty waves erupt onto the slab and I knew then it was going to be a crazy day. We couldn’t resist and started towing. Zac got me into my first few waves of the day, then we swapped and I got him a few. We cruised in the channel for a bit and watched some of the other teams get some sick ones while we had a rest and reset.
I remember the sky went dark and some weather came in and some of the other teams had a break .
We saw a window from the crowd and went back out, I was sat out the back for about 10 mins or so trying to calm my breathing and get into a good head space. Zac turned and said " I think theres a bomb coming" as he started to drive, I was lifted out the water and all I saw was this lump of ocean that im getting towed into
Ive had a couple of fun waves this day but this one felt different. The way it was folding onto the slab and the speed it was sucking the water from the reef I knew this was going to be my best wave ive been on out here at "The Right". I picked my line and stood tall. It felt like the whole ocean was vortexing and I was right in the middle of it. Nothing can come close to the feeling I had after that wave.. Afterwards I was just sitting in the channel absolutely shell shocked, thats the sorta waves that leaves me hungry and excites me to chase more.
The day was so sick. Everyone charging hard and all came home safe.
Thanks to Zac Haynes, Matty Dunsmore and the other boys who allowed me to get the wave of my life.
